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(May 2,
2008)
The focus of our reviews this month will be value.
Gas prices are soaring and everything seems to be costing more. But
hey, this is Austin, a city of foodies if there ever was one. We need
our favorite restaurants the way Ali needed Frazier, the way Romeo needed
Juliet, the way Bush needed Karl Rove. So this month we're going to
tell you where to go so that your palate and your wallet will thank
you.
El Arroyo, on W. 5th St., has been known to several generations of UT
students as "The Ditch." Proprietor Clay McPhail is famous
for his daily dose of trenchant wit displayed on the sign outside. But
he's equally known for dishing up some seriously good and reasonably
priced Mexican foods.The fertile mind of the Ditch Meister has concocted
dishes like the Mexican Crab Rolls served with Jalapeno jelly.The first
time I tried these, I was tempted to shout "ole!" This is
serious flavor. And how about the Ditch Fries? Done of the grilll with
jalapenos, onions and low sodium soy, they are irresistible. There's
nothing quite like them in town. And for an interesting spin on a Tex-Mex
classic, try the Spinach Queso made with white cheese and mild peppers.
The taste here is mellow but with a bit of zing from Popeye's favorite
veggie. It's a winner.
El Arroyo is also known for its burgers. Clay has a new one called the
Cuban Burger. If you like spice, you'll love this. The burger is coated
with a piquant sauce and then pressed as if it were a pannini. Add cheese
and you have instant burger bliss. Also new on the menu is a lovely
Flat Iron steak done in a tangy brown sauce and served with enchiladas
and rice. No more Tampequena for me: I'm hooked on the terrific flavors
this dish provides. And the Stuffed Avocadoes will make you a believer.
Stuffed with a spiced chicken, it's lightly breaded and flash-fried
and served with a creamy avocado sauce and a dash of chipotle.
I've always loved the seafood at El Arroyo. My favorite is the Enchiladas
del Mar. You begin with two flour tortillas stuffed with seriously fresh
lump crabmeat along with shrimp that have been sauteed in a Mornay sauce
and covered with jack cheese. The result is magical. And the Shrimp
Cielo is also a killer. I like the way they pan sautee the shrimp, it
enhances the texture. And then they finish it with heavy cream, chipotles
and sour cream. Wonderful taste components here. And the Shrimp Mexicana
will flat out rock your world, baby. This dish is ratcheted up a couple
of notches as the camarones are sauteed with tomatoes, peppers, and
onions and finshed with bell peppers, sour cream, two cheeses, and an
excellent ranchera sauce.
Craving fajitas? El Arroyo has some of the better ones around. The beef
and the chicken are my favorites and the restaurant has managed the
delicate balancing act of making sure the accompanying veggies stay
crisp and don't get inundated with oil as can sometimes happen.
And new on the dessert scene is a must try: The Chimichanga Cheesecake.
The dish consists of home-grown cheesecake served in pastry rolls and
covered with ice cream. It is a show stopper to be sure.
El Arroyo is the perfect spot for value-conscious Tex-Mex lovers. It's
at 1624 W. 5th and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Clay also
has gluten-free dishes available. Who knows, you might even become immortlized
on that infamous sign!
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