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(January 30, 2004)
You know it's ironic. Eddie V's at the Arboretum opened in October of
2001. Tough time to open in the post 9-11 economic and attitudinal malaise
that gripped the Austin area. And yet, while other fine owner-operated
restaurants in that area like Dan McKlusky's and Ray's Steakhouse have
closed or seen diminishing sales, Eddie V's is flourishing.
From my recent visit there, there is one thing that
is totally obvious: folks who are passionate about serving the dining
public run this place. That attitude of commitment and professionalism
translates down to the chefs, wait people, the table bussers, every
one who works there. It's just a flat out fun place to go. There is
just an atmosphere of comfort here. And it makes people want to come
back.
The fact that the food is virtually flawless doesn't
hurt either. Let's begin with the appetizers. First, and I've not a
huge fan as a rule of oysters on the half shell. But Eddie V's has converted
me. They are fresh, chilled, and delicious. I love the deep fried Lobster
tail. You can pick it out of the shell and dip it in a honey mustard
sauce or just ask, as I do, for drawn butter. Yum! Another treat is
the Tartare of Pacific Ahi Tuna. I love the way the red chile and sesame
oils accent the taste of the tuna. And I do love the Carolina Corn and
Crab Chowder. This is one of my favorite soups in the city. It has a
wonderfully rich and seasoned taste and a beautiful texture. The chives
and bacon are a nice touch as well.
There's only one appetizer that I found a bit disappointing. The crab
cakes were on the dry side. To me, they could have been moister. Well,
total perfection would be boring, don't you think?
The entrees present a compelling array of choices
that all have their merits. I love the Sautéed Gulf Snapper with
Lump Crab. Served with a mellow lemon and chive butter sauce, this dish,
if one were not careful, could become the default choice for each subsequent
visit. It's that good. Another killer is the boneless Salmon Steak.
It's a big piece of fish, and it was cooked perfectly. Tender, with
an ethereal horseradish crust and a lovely honey mustard sauce, this
dish has "must try" status.
And don't over look the steaks at Eddie V's either. The Filet Mignon
is about as good as it gets. Tender, succulent, served with a flawless
béarnaise sauce. The 22 oz Bone-in Ribeye is equally delightful.
Entrees like this invariably invite wonderful side dishes. My favorites
are the sautéed steak mushrooms and shallots and scalloped potatoes
au gratin.
You want to talk dessert? I usually can't get that
far but the molten Godiva cake with vanilla bean ice cream is to die
for. And something lighter but equally tasty is the Coconut Cream Pie.
Eddie V's is open nightly. Unlike their sister restaurant
downtown, there's no entertainment or huge bar scene. It's about friends
and food, and staying as long as you like. It's my kind of place.
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