(July 8, 2005)

Back about seven years ago, I recall reading that the Driskill Grill in the iconic Driskill Hotel was hosting one of those murder mystery dinners: you know those dreadful "who-done-it" interactive disasters where the audience actually tries to solve the crime. It's been my experience that once a restaurant resorts to mystery dinners to drive traffic, the end is near. Such was the case with the Driskill. But out of that ending came a splendid new beginning, because the new man in town was David Bull, the sous-chef of the Mansion at Turtle Creek in Dallas.

My first meal there was a lunch about five years ago, a year or so after Bull had taken over the reins. I was stunned that day by the originality and the sheer array of splendid tastes that confronted me. And I'm still stunned, literally every time I dine at this exquisite restaurant. Bull was voted one of Food and Wine Magazine's BEST NEW CHEFS a few years ago. And the quality of his food is evident with every dish. Our most recent tasting began with an amuse bouche of Granita, a shaved ice confection usually reserved for dessert. Bull's ingredients ranged from beets and a dollop of ricotta to carrot green apple and a tomato water gin. The appetizers were no less sensational. The Soft Shell Crab was exquisite. The confluence of grilled onion, basil seeds and a smashing yellow tomato meuniere was amazing. As were the Braised Beef Short Ribs. Tender and savory, they were lovingly anointed with apricot jam and a killer black pepper gastrique [or reduction]. Another wonderful appetizer was pirated from the Prix Fixe menu for the evening: the Duck Confit Ravioli. Served with a smooth duck consommé, celery and sunflower sprouts, the duck confit was one of the more interesting and delicious ravioli fillers I've had in ages. The Calamari Fritto Misto was perfectly textured and flavored. Nice addition of baby spinach and buffalo mozzarella in a rosemary olive oil.

We also tried a delightful Roasted Beet Salad offset by a warm Camembert cheese. The Texas Chop Salad with bleu cheese and smoked bacon was equally appealing. And the most interesting of all the salads was the Tomato and Cucumber Salad. They roast the tomato for 72 hours and serve it with shaved parmesan, a piquant red onion yogurt, and Arugula. Unbelievable flavors!

And the entrees were another example of Chef Bull at his creative best. The Rack of Lamb was an intensely flavorful and intriguing dish. Done with a mild horseradish crust, the rack of lamb, best ordered medium rare, made its own unique statement. They also present a lamb osso bucco which they call a lamb shank hash topped with perfect Cippolini onions. The Baked Alaskan Halibut was another symphony of taste. The texture is critical in this dish and Bull nailed it. The Fingerling Potatoes, green bean-tomato salad and brown butter all complemented perfectly. And the Charred Beef Tenderloin was yet another triumph underscored by a lovely black truffle potato puree along with buttered leeks and smoked mustard. Every bite was a moment to be savored.

The wine list at the Driskill Grill has been substantially upgraded as well. We had two lovely bottles of Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon. And the service was as always, gracious and impeccable.

Chef Bull and the Driskill Grill have reached the pantheon of fine dining in Austin. Of that, there can be no doubt whatsoever.

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