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(March 2, 2007)
Dragon Gate is a particularly
engaging restaurant in Davenport Village off Highway 360. It fuses Japanese
and Chinese with a hint of European influence mixed in. Dragon Gate
appeals to the eye as well as the palate. A dining experience there
is one to be appreciated on a number of levels: from the attentive staff
to the artists in the kitchen.
I am absolutely smitten by a good udon noodle soup
and Dragon Gate has a Seafood Udon that is one of my favorites. A bowl
of this is a meal in itself with the bites of scallop and crab enhanced
by the rich beef broth and the large noodles. Yet, at Dragon Gate, it's
an appetizer. What a way to start. The Vegetable Dumplings are also
excellent. The texture of these sautéed breezy little crescents
of love is perfect. The taste is surprisingly mellow and nuanced. And
they come eight to an order, which is a nice change from the four or
six one sometimes sees at other Chinese restaurants. I am also quite
fond of the nigiri sushi and the rolls at Dragon Gate. I always try
to save room for the Philadelphia Roll which features smoked salmon
and a bit of cream cheese. And the maguro (tuna) and hamachi (yellow
tail) are always very fresh and consistently tasty. I've never been
disappointed. And the exquisite Soft Shell Crab with Ponzu sauce is
a crispy, crunchy amalgam of taste and riveting texture. I wish soft
shells weren't seasonal.
The entrée selection at Dragon Gate is large:
but not overwhelmingly so. Each dish stands out in its own unique way
and certainly has its place. I love the Jalapeno Lamb. The lamb in a
tangy brown sauce just explodes with flavor and the jalapenos accentuate
the mid palate sensations. The accompanying stir-fried vegetables round
out the dish nicely. The European influence mentioned earlier can be
seen in the Cassoulet Chinois. The sauce in this dish is made with seafood
stock, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and ground pepper. The sauce wakes up
the lobster, scallops, shrimp and crab done in clay pot. The result
is a very subtle, eminently pleasing dish. And the Shrimp with Honey
Walnuts is not lathered with mayonnaise as one so often sees these days.
Rather, the prawns are lightly breaded, and perfectly stir fried with
red peppers, asparagus, cherries and pineapple chunks in a Szechuan
sauce that does no overwhelm the dish. Man this is good. Finally, try
the Pork Lo Mein. This is essential Chinese comfort food at its best.
The flavors are wonderful and the noodles are always al dente, just
the way I like them.
Dragon Gate is down at the back end of Davenport
Village across from Maudie's Tex Mex. This is a restaurant where the
owners have put a great deal of thought, and passion, into every offering.
And you know what? It shows! I'll see you there this weekend.
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