(August 11, 2007)

Howard Kells & Alejandro Sanchez have a passion for the fiery flavors of South America. From a small 7-table restaurant on E. 7th to a gracious and accommodating hacienda-like eatery across from The Four Seasons on Cesar Chavez, their restaurant Dona Emilia's continues to evolve into one of Austin's great success stories. Their spot in our Top 20 is much deserved.

And they've continued to innovate and improve the menus. I love some of the new lunch items. First, you must try the Chimichurri Burger. You haven't lived until you've tasted this half pound of Angus beef marinated in chimichurri and served with lettuce, kiwi, and pico de gallo. Amazing flavor! And the new Jerked Chicken Sandwich has just the right amount of the trendy Jamaican jerk spice dry rub on a tender chicken breat. It's served open-faced with lettuce and tomato and zesty seasoned fries. And of course no meal at Dona Emilia's could begin without the stellar Arepas Con Queso. These grilled cornmeal patties stuffed with mozzarella cheese have a unique and very satisfying flavor. Making Arepas around the holidays is tantamount in Colombia to making tamales in Mexico. It's a time-honored tradition. And a tasty one. The Tuna should also be sampled. It's pepper crusted and seared rare with a piquant habanero sauce. The texture here is almost sushi-like in its smoothness and is replete with all the requisite flavor.

Dona Emilia's has many delicious and interesting Colombian-style entrees. But their newer additions embrace the totality of the Latin American/Caribbean dining experience. I am very impressed with the Spanish Spice Rubbed Ribeye. This hand cut ribeye is the epitome of Latin succulence: tender and beautifully spiced and served on an arepa with poblano mashed potatoes and sauteed vegetables. This one is accorded must-try status. Another new entrée is the Gaucho Skewers. This up-tempo dish features grilled pork, beef tenderloin, and chorizo finished with a "Diablo" chimichurri. Make of the Diablo reference what you will but from a taste standpoint, I think the message is clear. It's a little "caliente". And that's good. Also try the Caribbean jerked chicken. This is done in the classic Caribbean school of cooking and served with saffron rice, black beans and maduros. Hey mon! Dot is some kind o cookin'! And lest we lose ourselves in the celebration of the new, let's not forget the inestimable Arroz con Pollo. This chicken and rice dish was the first thing I ever tried at Dona Emilia's. It is moist, spicy and simply without peer in the city.

Dona Emilia's has also kept up with the enormous popularity of the classic Cuban Mojito. Their new Texas Peach Mojito, made with Bacardi Red Peach and stonewall peach slices is a peferct way to complement, or in this case, to end the meal. And I think that one may just not be enough? Senor, yo quiero dos mas!

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