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The site on which the County
Line on the Hill now stands was once Austin's first and only night club.
It became the a BBQ restaurant over 25 years ago. Nestled up in the
hills above Bee Caves Rd. with a killer hill country view, it's easy
to see why the location has always been so popular. And I'm pleased
to report that after some significant menu tweaking and experimentation
with the sausage, the food at this venerable old spot is every bit as
good as the view.
We started the other night with sauteed mushrooms dune in red wine and
butter. Very good. A little fungi to jump start the craving for red
meat. And of course their Homemade Bread. We opted for half white and
half whole wheat. It was close to Grandma's bread, assuming you had
a grandma who baked bread. Very tasty.
I ordered what for me had been a problem food at
the Country Line: the sausage. But No problems with tough casings anymore.
Just flavorful and savory, tender sausage. Easy to cut and chew. Much
improved. Also tried the Pork Ribs, which were very good. The meat fell
away from the bone and was complemented by the tangy, smoky, sauce.
Now, not that long ago, the County Line didn't even have Pork Ribs.
It was beef ribs, brisket, and sausage, and of course, chicken.
But as we said, the menu has changed. You can get salads now. That's
right. They've added a grill section to the menu. And you can even get
fish. And mashed potatoes!!! For God's sake. Now before you BBQ purists
all start rolling your eyes, don't despair. The basics are still damn
good. The Beef Ribs were as good as ever, the meat was melt-in-your-mouth
tender. The cole slaw and the potato salad still rock. So still your
beating hearts.
Restaurants have to evolve. Sometimes even BBQ restaurants. And the
County Line has. But the good news is they've fixed a few problems along
the way in the course of that evolution.
The service the other night was almost greatly improved from my previous
visit. In short, it looks like this old girl has turned the corner on
the millenium and she's in back in fighting form. The County Line on
the Hill. I can almost hear the revelers from those long decades ago...
their voices filling the night in beautiful harmony with the sounds
of families and friends of today... all enjoying the building tucked
backed in the cedar trees on the hill. For Fox 7 News, I'm Rob Balon,
dining out, at the County Line.
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