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(January 26, 2007)

When I first reviewed Cool River on Parmer Lane almost six years ago, I was impressed with the comfortable and spacious dining area, the inviting cigar lounge, and most of all the consistency and quality of the steaks and chops. You know the most pleasant task confronting a food critic is to report that all systems are still "go" at a favorite restaurant. And Cool River is as good as ever, a shining beacon of good taste and innovation in N. Austin.
 
While Jamie Gutierrez has departed for sister restaurant III Forks, chef Adrian has settled in and I love what he's doing. At our recent Gonzo Gourmet club dinner here, his Seafood Empanadas Ventanas, my favorite appetizer was a huge favorite. These crescent shaped delights have a taste that is unique in their appeal. And they're huge. One will more than suffice. But you should try this appetizer. Another must try is the  Beef Tenderloin Bruschetta. The slightly smokey flavor and tender texture makes these just about irresistible. What a neat dish! And while the ubiquitous artichoke and spinach dip is almost a mandatory appetizer at most restaurants these days, at Cool River, there is a real reason to try it. The flavors are dead on and the rich creamy composition adheres beautifully to whatever dipping implement you choose. Also, Cool River's version of Caprese salad, with mozzarella and tomatoes is the perfect salad course. A dab of balsamic vinaigrette and VOILA! Love the crisp freshness of this dish.
 
There are two categories of entrees at Cool River. Steaks, and everything else that isn't a steak. I hope you get where I’m going here. Not to disparage the other offerings, but the steaks are amazing. I love the 14 oz ribeye for evenings where I am a little less hungry, The taste of this cut is incredible. The marbellng is perfect and the meat has been aged to maximize its quality.  An equally excellent and larger option is the 20oz Cowboy Ribeye.

This bone-in beauty not only offers wonderful taste opportunities, but you can also reward your dog for his years of loyalty and affection. Although, on occasion, I actually gnaw the bone myself.

And if Prime Rib is your metier, you will turn proverbial cartwheels over this dish at Cool River. This is one of the few places I will eat Prime Rib and I've always been rewarded.

And while they're not an official menu item, call ahead two days in advance and request the Colorado Lamb Chops. The searing flavor of this dish makes one even more appreciative of chef Adrian's talents. And please, no mint sauce. The lamb in a light jous is all the sauce that's needed. This is seriously tasty fare.

If meat is not your thing, Cool River still delivers with the Devil Creek Shrimp. The beauty of the presentation is exceeded only by the amazing flavor of the shrimp and the very creative sauce. And the sesame seared Ahi Tuna delivers on many levels. The key to this dish is the texture. Please, no more than medium rare or you risk compromising the delicate balance between perfectly cooked and overcooked.
 
Cool River is open for lunch and dinner. In addition to the aforementioned cigar lounge (a great spot to smoke a stogie and sip a little cognac after dinner), there is a huge bar adjacent to the dining rooms with a lively crowd stout drinks and lots of live music. You might call Cool River a complete entertainment experience. I just call it my favorite destination in N. Austin.

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