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(January 26, 2007)
When I first reviewed Cool River on Parmer Lane
almost six years ago, I was impressed with the comfortable and spacious
dining area, the inviting cigar lounge, and most of all the consistency
and quality of the steaks and chops. You know the most pleasant task
confronting a food critic is to report that all systems are still "go"
at a favorite restaurant. And Cool River is as good as ever, a shining
beacon of good taste and innovation in N. Austin.
While Jamie Gutierrez has departed for sister restaurant III Forks,
chef Adrian has settled in and I love what he's doing. At our recent
Gonzo Gourmet club dinner here, his Seafood Empanadas Ventanas, my favorite
appetizer was a huge favorite. These crescent shaped delights have a
taste that is unique in their appeal. And they're huge. One will
more than suffice. But you should try this appetizer. Another must try
is the Beef Tenderloin Bruschetta. The slightly smokey flavor
and tender texture makes these just about irresistible. What a neat
dish! And while the ubiquitous artichoke and spinach dip is almost a
mandatory appetizer at most restaurants these days, at Cool River, there
is a real reason to try it. The flavors are dead on and the rich creamy
composition adheres beautifully to whatever dipping implement you choose.
Also, Cool River's version of Caprese salad, with mozzarella and tomatoes
is the perfect salad course. A dab of balsamic vinaigrette and VOILA!
Love the crisp freshness of this dish.
There are two categories of entrees at Cool River. Steaks, and everything
else that isn't a steak. I hope you get where I’m going here. Not
to disparage the other offerings, but the steaks are amazing. I love
the 14 oz ribeye for evenings where I am a little less hungry, The taste
of this cut is incredible. The marbellng is perfect and the meat has
been aged to maximize its quality. An equally excellent and larger
option is the 20oz Cowboy Ribeye.
This bone-in beauty not only offers wonderful taste
opportunities, but you can also reward your dog for his years of loyalty
and affection. Although, on occasion, I actually gnaw the bone myself.
And if Prime Rib is your metier, you will turn proverbial
cartwheels over this dish at Cool River. This is one of the few places
I will eat Prime Rib and I've always been rewarded.
And while they're not an official menu item, call
ahead two days in advance and request the Colorado Lamb Chops. The searing
flavor of this dish makes one even more appreciative of chef Adrian's
talents. And please, no mint sauce. The lamb in a light jous is all
the sauce that's needed. This is seriously tasty fare.
If meat is not your thing, Cool River still delivers
with the Devil Creek Shrimp. The beauty of the presentation is exceeded
only by the amazing flavor of the shrimp and the very creative sauce.
And the sesame seared Ahi Tuna delivers on many levels. The key to this
dish is the texture. Please, no more than medium rare or you risk compromising
the delicate balance between perfectly cooked and overcooked.
Cool River is open for lunch and dinner. In addition to the aforementioned
cigar lounge (a great spot to smoke a stogie and sip a little cognac
after dinner), there is a huge bar adjacent to the dining rooms with
a lively crowd stout drinks and lots of live music. You might call
Cool River a complete entertainment experience. I just call it my favorite
destination in N. Austin.
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