(October 19, 2007)

One of the most recent additions to our Top 20 is Will Packwood's Cibo at 918 Congress. This restaurant has given me a great deal of pleasure in the past year. Cibo means "food" in Italian but this is not an Italian restaurant with traditional spaghetti and meatballs and lasagna. Rather, as is the case in so many ristorantes in Italy, it is about fresh ingredients, imagination, wonderful flavors, a chef whose dishes reflect a wide array of influences, and the firm belief that less can definitely be more.

Will Packwood

The Antipasti courses at Cibo reflect Packwood's deft touch and culinary creativity. Take for example, the Braised Pork Belly with Cannelini Beans al Uccelletto. The flavor of the pork is mesmerizing and each bite reveals exquisite texture. The cannelini beans, a Tuscan staple, are sautéed in sautéed in olive oil, sage and tomatoes. This is also the way small birds (uccelli) are prepared in this part of Italy. The dish is magical. The Fegatini or Mousse of Chicken Liver is another show-stopper. The pate of chicken livers is served on black pepper crostini and grappa macerated (similar to marinating) golden raisins. I have often doubled my order on this dish. And the Sauteed Calamari is another dish that is close to perfection. Chef Packwood will have no breaded calamari served in his place. They arrive au natural with tomato, garlic, parsley, cracked red pepper and creamy polenta. This dish is light and incredibly appealing.

We have talked in the past about Packwood's wizardry with gnocchi, those delightful dumplings made from potatoes and other ingredients. His skill continues unabated and the Potato Gnocchi with Oxtail Ragu is a stunning example. Topped with grated Parmigiano Reggiano, this delicate dish rocks with subtle flavors. And no trip to Cibo would be complete without tasting the Risotto alla Contadina. This is arborial rice as good as you're gong to find it. Packwood disdains the Savoy Cabbage that's often found in this dish and uses potatoes, prosciutto, parmigiano reggiano and kale. The flavor and perfect texture of the rice will amaze you.

Many might ask, "Why would a Roasted Berkshire Pork Shank be on the menu of an Italian restaurant?" Well, as we discussed earlier this restaurant is many things. And I'm ecstatic that the pork shank is on the menu because it may be the best damned dish I have had in the downtown area. Served with an achingly good creamy polenta, bitter greens and grated Grana Padano, the savory pork shank works its way onto your fork sans knife to give you some idea of the tenderness. I urge you to try it. And you must sample the Grilled Mediterranean Sea Bass with a simple yet delicious tomato-parsley lemon salad. Again, Packwood lifts us up here to a new level of searingly beautiful tastes and a fish dish executed to perfection.

Cibo deserves your patronage. It is a restaurant full of passion and reverence: passion for the art of creative cooking and reverence for the freshness and simplicity that are the hallmarks of classic Mediterranean cuisine.

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