(April 6, 2007)

Chon Som, which means spoon and fork in Thai, could easily be written off at first glance as one of those little strip mall Asian joints. But let me assure you: that would be a huge mistake. There is some serious talent in this family-owned restaurant and the Thai and Sushi dishes that roll out have unmistakable quality and unilateral appeal.
Sushi chef Nat and Asian chef Alica have got their mojo working at Chon Som.

Let's start with the Asian cooked cuisine first. As many of you know I am a huge fan of Thai and Japanese food. And Chon Som is the real deal. The Satay Nibbles are a delicious place to begin. The dish starts with dainty slices of cucumber topped with grilled chicken and spicy peanut sauce and garnished with red onions and cilantro. And the Dynamite Seafood lives up to its explosive name in taste. Mix shrimp, scallops, crab and mushrooms on top of sushi rice baked in a seashell with a sinfully rich and textured sauce and you have another winner. Love this dish. And the Tom Kha soup has an abundance of nuanced flavors driven by the coconut milk mixed with the hot and sour Thai chili paste. I like to add the shrimp with mine. What a mellow yet intriguing flavor!

I am equally smitten with the noodle dishes at Chon Som. Of course, the noodle is a staple of Thai Cuisine. The Pad Thai features rice noodles stir fried with eggs that have been sautéed in sweet vinegar sauce. Then come the bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, and green onions. The taste is rich and mellow but with a requisite kick. Yum. And the Drunken Noodles are another serious recommendation. The key here is Alicia's garlic basil sauce. You simply cannot stop eating these flat noodles. They're an ongoing taste sensation. Also try the Green Curry. They've managed to tame the green Thai chiles while still making them the focal point and have added bamboo shoots, zucchini and basil.

I'll tell you something, if you like Sushi, you're going to like what Nat prepares. His work is something beautiful to behold as well as to taste. The South Beach Roll is my favorite. The blend of cooked white fish, roe, avocado and cucumber with spicy kimchee sauce is irresistible. Also the Madonna Roll named after the material girl herself. Imagine a paper thin omelet with unagi sauce, eel, asparagus (for texture), avocado and roe. Should I say "strike a pose?" And if tangy rice vinegar is your thing, the Sunomono with cucumber, shrimp, crab and orange will turn your taste buds around. Lip smacking good is NOT a cliché in this case. Nat's sushi is as pristine, fresh and tasty as you're going to get in the River City. And he knows how to wield the blade! The delicacy of his work is most impressive.

So don't overlook Chon Som. It may be your little neighborhood restaurant at 2013 Wells Branch Parkway but as Mr. Rogers said so often, it's a "beautiful day in the neighborhood." You need to try Chon Som this weekend.

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