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(March 9, 2007)
Ronald Chang has always
been one step ahead of his contemporaries in the world of Asian cuisine.
Twenty-four years ago, he raised the bar substantially for Chinese restaurants
in Austin when he opened the original Chinatown on Bee Caves Road. The
restaurant burst on the scene with a roar like the Concorde breaking
the sound barrier. White tablecloths, gorgeous presentation, impeccably
original cuisine from four regions of China..things would never be the
same again after that.
And Ronald hasn't slowed down in the least. A divorce
cost him the Bee Caves restaurant, but his Chinatown Mopac near Anderson
continues to innovate.
What's new at Chinatown Mopac? I tried the Grilled
Duck with Snowpeas and it was terrific. Grilling the duck minimizes
the potential greasiness and elevates the flavor. Great dish. And the
Cilantro Shrimp is equally delightful. The shrimp have an incredibly
mellow flavor in this dish and are perfectly offset by the crisp broccoli
ringing the star attraction.
I am also very partial to the Honey Pepper Beef. This is a sizzling
dish that arrives crackling and hissing like some archetypical Chinese
dragon. The flavors in this dish are so intriguing, so immediately gratifying,
and the beef so tender that I have been known to devour this without
coming up for air.
I have the same affection for the Portabello Shrimp. Done in a Thai
chili pepper sauce, this dish evokes a less thunderous but no less appreciative
response. Also, Cheng's version of Sea Bass in a light, brothy sauce,
is as tender and tasty as one has a right to expect. The fish crumbles
at the touch of a fork into beautifully textured bites. An absolutely
stellar dish.
Another serious taste is the Taiwanese Hot and Sour
Seafood Soup. Imagine the best hot and sour soup you've ever tasted,
add crab, shrimp, and scallops and the result is magical. This is another
Ronald Chang creation. The master at work. And if you try nothing else,
try the Jade Pot Stickers. These minced shrimp beauties are the definitive
dumplings in Austin. They are moist yet crisp with subtle flavors. Another
appetizer that I always enjoy is the Fried Calamari. The calamari, with
a Kan-shao sauce, crackle with good flavor and a engaging texture.
Ronald has not let the current sushi craze pass
him by either. The Avocado Kama stuffed with crab in a piquant orange
sauce will flat out wake up those taste buds. And it's a pleasure to
look at as well. And make sure to try the fresh sushi and sashimi that's
always available.
Cheng also prides himself on pairing wines with Asian cuisine and he
has an excellent selection of wine and sake.
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