(June 8, 2007)

Chez Zee is one of those restaurants that were it not so accommodating and consistently gratifying, might fit into the "keep Austin weird" vibe that we give so much lip service to these days. Trouble is, there's really nothing weird about Chez Zee: mildly quirky perhaps, absolutely charming and fiercely independent. So maybe it fits into the "keep Austin classy" or "keep Austin from becoming an endless array of chain restaurants" categories. I'm OK with either one: because Chez Zee, at 2222 and Balcones has achieved almost iconic status in Austin.

This family-owned restaurant dishes up food that runs the gamut from Texas simple to esoteric and absolutely sublime. There's a menu choice to reflect many culinary moods or needs. I often like to start with the Crabmeat Quesadilla. This ying-yang dish presents beautiful contrasts like Monterrey Jack, roasted red peppers, tender lumps of crabmeat, southwest seasonings, and a beautiful raspberry-cilantro salsa. The flavors here are unrelenting and very appealing. Another appetizer that fires me up is the Smoked Salmon Focaccia. I suppose if they were going for snob appeal they could call this dish a bruschetta because the grilled focaccia is adorned with smoked salmon, garlic, red onions, olive oil and capers. It can be a bit salty for some but I love it. And a visit to Chez Zee for me is not complete without the classic Aztec Shrimp and Corn Bisque. The sumptuous tomato chicken broth provides the starting flavor point and then it's fired up with popcorn shrimp, whole-kernel corn, and fresh veggies.

The entrees can be both soothing and sophisticated, blending comfort with flavors that unfold on the palate. One of my longtime favorites is the Jalapeno Cornbread Stuffed Chicken Breast. The crowning achievement to this dish is a wonderful New Mexico red chile cream sauce. When that interacts with the tender jalapeno-stuffed chicken breast, well, let the flavors happen. And happen they do! And when I'm in the carnivorous mood, I tackle the tender 16-oz T-Bone. A gorgonzola walnut butter bathes this steak and creates a seal of irresistible flavor and aromas. Moving on to the pasta arena, try Sharon's Shrimp and Angel hair. I'm not usually a fan of angel hair pasta but it works in this dish beautifully. The garlic cream sauce folds into the pasta and the sautéed Gulf shrimp creating a light yet incredibly fulsome dish. Certainly worth trying.

Chez Zee has long tempted the sweet tooth of Austin. I adore the Italian Cream Cake, the stunningly tasty cheese cakes, and the amazing Coconut Cream Pie. And for God's sake, do try their weekend brunches. I think the Migas are unrivaled in the city and the Crème Brulee French Toast is densely and decadently delicious. You can also take it home!

So, see you this weekend?

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