(July 20, 2007)

Cantina Laredo opened last year as part of City Manager Toby Futrell's evolving vision of the 2nd St. entertainment district. Cantina is part of the company that owns the exemplary III Forks and Cool River Cafe restaurants. It's got a sophisticated décor at 3rd and Colorado and is very inviting.

So here's the story: This restaurant did not deliver a memorable experience for me on my first visit. There were a couple of dishes that initially disappointed me: like the Carnitas and the Botanas platter. But you know what: the mark of a restaurant is what they do AFTER the problem is encountered. And Cantina Laredo has grown into a very appealing eatery.

You have to start with the creative and delicious tableside preparation of the Guacamole. The avocados are blended with jalapenos, cilantro, red onions, tomatoes, and lime along with a seasoning of white peppers and garlic. Marveloso! The result: not too smooth texturally with almost perfect flavors: as for spectator sport, it's the Mexican equivalent of watching the grill chef at Toyko Steakhouse make a volcano out of an onion.

And the Botanas platter has considerably improved. The pork tacos are moist and flavorful, and the beef and chicken fajitas have a zesty flavor, as they should. The chicken quesadilla, while not over the top, was more than adequate. I also like the Chicken Chimichurri Salad. The grilled chicken, avocadoes, bacon, mushroom and tomatoes are nicely accented by cotija cheese and the piquant chimichurri sauce.

As noted, I initially did not like the Carnitas. But the other night they were quite good. They've made a critical change by going to a cut of pork shank, initially grilling and then slow cooking the meat. Very tender and tasty. I also like the Cheese Enchiladas. While not using the processed cheese that would excite the Tex Mex lover, they nonetheless had a sharper, more singular taste. I found them very appealing with terrific texture. I also like the Tampico. This is a grilled chicken breast with sautéed artichoke hearts, mushrooms, spinach, and red bell peppers with Monterey jack cheese and a seriously good sour cream and poblano sauce. And the Shrimp Flautas offer a different take on this classic dish. The crunchy fried tortilla shell holds a delicate blend of shrimp, Monterey jack cheese and jalapenos. Ole!

Cantina Laredo will disappoint only those looking for processed cheese poured over everything. It's a touch more sophisticated than that. And that's good for us, because Austin sure has more than its share of restaurants who think the former is Mana from Heaven.

Top of page