Of Denzel, Joey, Mo, Mariani, Frankie, Wendy and all of "youse" at Baldoria

You'll recall that last month we discussed my lunch with Esquire food critic John Mariani. I found him to be genial, fond of the broad riposte, and knowledgeable.

But stop the presses! Cancel the concession speech. Because I just happened to dine at Baldoria, a NYC restaurant thoroughly and, it appears, unjustifiably trashed by Mariani.

Newly opened on 249 W. 49th St., Baldoria serves up neo classic Italian food spawned from the legendary Rao's in Harlem. Frankie Pellegrino, 31, is the owner, extending the Rao's tradition to midtown, and adding some new twists to boot.

Baldoria is ripe with celebrities. Denzel Washington sat two tables down the night I was there. He appeared to be very animated, having a ball. Mel Brooks was in with Anne Bancroft. And those were just the recognizable celebs. I met Joey and Mo at the bar; two guys whom I suspect have every bit as much influence in their circle as Denzel and Mel do in theirs. Joey and Mo were unmistakable New Yorkers, something you'd rarely see if we had a Texas equivalent of Baldoria. And they added to the mood. Because, as Frankie explains it, everyone at Baldoria is treated like a celebrity.

And the food, much maligned by Mariani, was, with the exception of the bread, excellent! I loved the roasted peppers. This dish, enhanced with raisins and pine nuts, is the perfect "antipasti." Lovely flavor and presentation. Ditto for the Fusili pasta with cabbage and sausage in a red sauce. This dish, one of the holdovers from Rao's, is cooked al dente, is savory, aromatic, and reminiscent of Italian countryside cooking. Simple, as the best Italian dishes are, and excellent. Kudos to Chef Giuseppe [what you were expecting someone named Wolfgang?] I finished with a delightful caramel Gelato, rich in texture and taste. And, of course, a snifter or two of cognac.

Then, I drifted toward the bar and got a few minutes of life lessons from Joey. Denzel and his pals drifted in and out, Frankie was dancing with his Brazilian born fiancée, Wendy the hostess was singing along with Deano Martin on the jukebox, and this was all at around 2AM! Try doing that at a restaurant in Austin!

Baldoria is a celebration of life and food. You must go there on your next trip to the Big Apple. Call at 212-582-0460 and make a reservation. Or have the concierge at your hotel give them a call. This place is the real deal, capisce???

And one final note: Yo, Mariani, lighten up!