Teresa Forman and Robert Brady had this vision of a lovely old home at 606 Rio Grande. They saw a restaurant there, a fine French restaurant, where unhurried, elegant dining experiences were the order of the day. They smelled fragrant aromas drifting out of chef Jacques Richard's kitchen. And they dreamed of food critics, including a large, balding man with a beard, raving about their food. And you know what, their dream as well as mine has come true.

I've been waiting for a place like Aquarelle. I've needed an infusion of elegant French fare for some time now. And did we ever get it the other night. We shared a bowl of cauliflower soup with a hint of bleu cheese. The taste was pristine. Just lovely.

I tried a delightful salad of Cabbage, Frisse, Red Leaf Lettuce, Apple and Black Radish trossed with smoked Smoked Bacon and amazingly tender confit of rabbit served with a hazelnut oil vinaigrette. This salad worked at so many levels: the taste, the appearance, the texture, even the aroma…I rarely, if ever, linger over a salad... but I did over this one.

Next came an absolutely delicious Duck foie gras which was sautéed and artistically placed over creamed Canneellini White Beans along with their homemade shaved country ham (comparable to prosciutto). It was served over a sauce scented with tarragon. Magnifique!

For entrees we tried the Sauteed Maine Lobster which was presented in parsley butter and an aromatic lobster jous and served over a delicate and whimsical potato puree, for $26. I thought the lobster could have been cooked for a minute or two longer, but my companion disagreed. Nonetheless, the flavor was terrific!

I tried the fillet of beef, which was a perfect center cut, pan-seared, and presented just as I had ordered it. A lovely mustard cream sauce with a hint of brandy and baby mushrooms made it absolutely perfect.

Deserts were exceptional. We tried the assortment of homemade sorbets. My favorite was the strawberry but all were wonderful. And you must try the Tarte Tatin...which Jaques invented by accident. He had burned an apple tart so he turned it over. As it cooked on the other side, it caramelized, and so served it with fresh vanilla ice cream…for a flavorfest that's as good as any desert in town.

Aquarelle is at 606 Rio Grande, across from Katz's. I love it. And who says dreams don't come true.

Top of page