III Forks, a steak and seafood emporium for grownups on Cesar Chavez at Lavaca, made its Austin debut about three years ago. They started out strong and in my opinion, have gotten even better. Chef Jamie Gutierrez is a force in the kitchen and his imprimatur is evident on both the menu and every dish that emerges from his domain.

III Forks is elegant, comfortable, and the ambiance is just about perfect for a quiet or somewhat more enthusiastic dinner. It's simply very easy to quickly feel at ease here. The restaurant's various rooms are named after early Texas heroes and each room has its own appeal and character.

The menu at III Forks is relatively diminutive and that's fine with me. Each appetizer and entrée gets that much more attention from the chef. And by all means try the Beef Croustades. The tenderloins are pounded until caramelized and then served on garlic toast points with a mustard aioli. Jamie served these at the recent Busby Foundation fundraiser and they were a smash with the crowd. Likewise the Scallops wrapped in Bacon are also delightful: the meuniere sauce is delicious and the scallops are plump and flavorful. The bacon provides a lovely contrast in flavor.

And I am a total fan of the Tomato and Onion Salad with Fresh Mozarella. This version of the famous caprese salad is robust and totally captivating. The tomatoes are firm, the onions afford the right flavor accent, and the mozzarella serves as a beautiful base to a great salad. The Wedge Salad is another treat that I indulge in quite often. I like mine with a vinaigrette dressing, goat cheese and red onions. Or you can go the bleu cheese route. Both work.

The fruits of the sea are among III Fork's strongest offerings. I love the Chilean Sea Bass. This dish is engaging in its simplicity: seared with only salt and pepper and a modified pesto. But that only enhances the flavors.

I am also quite fond of the Fried Shrimp Platter. The goal of a great fried shrimp is first-bite flavor rush that mingles batter and shrimp in a compelling fashion. And this is a dish that I would rarely order elsewhere but Chef Jamie nails it.

The steaks are the signature dishes of III forks. They are all USDA prime and aged to perfection. To me, there's nothing like a properly aged and well-cooked steak. My Bone-In Ribeye, done just north of medium rare and with the requisite marbling was literally bursting with flavor. If I could order nothing else, this would be the dish. The 10 oz Filet Mignon is another exquisite cut. Taken from the tenderloin, the meat has a smooth and almost effortless texture. And III Forks gets this one perfectly. The Porterhouse is a cut from where the tenderloin and top loin meat. It is 24 ounces in all its glory and is the perfect solution for someone who is seriously hungry. But please, no more than medium!

We referenced the fact that III Fork's various rooms are named for Texas heroes. Well, take your significant other to this restaurant, and you will be a hero: albeit briefly, but a hero nonetheless.

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