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Closings
Openings
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Musings about town
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Adios
to Tocai
What's a food critic to do? You give
serious consideration to moving a restaurant on to your Top 15 list
and then they close the shop. That lovely little Mediterranean bistro
on 6th St., Tocai, closed last week. Owner Anthony Garcia, a wine
enthusiast par excellence, had intimated to me that a sale might
be imminent.
But I did not expect the closing. Many patrons
of Tocai are distraught and I don't blame them. Any time an owner-operated
restaurant closes its doors all restaurant fans lose.
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Pao's Mandarin Downtown
Another of my favorites
bit the dust. Pao's was completely enclosed in an office building
with no visible access to the public. [Usually the kiss of death
for a restaurant] Yet it was packed for lunch and dinner all the
time. They had authentic mainland Chinese cuisine [loved the Scallion
cakes and the Tan Tan noodles] as well as the more sanitized American
style we're all used to. Seems that the building owner didn't want
any more food services in the office building and wouldn't renew
their lease. Dumb idea if you ask me. Pao's has another location
out at Lakeway that did not offer the authentic Chinese fare. Perhaps
they will now. However, the downtown location will be missed. That
leaves the downtown area only with China on the Avenue, and rumor
has it that they are in serious trouble.
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Kenichi
Went
to the opening of Kenichi last week at 5th and Colorado. This is
chef Kenichi Kenada's replication of his popular restaurant in Aspen.
The bill of fare is Sushi, and other Japanese and American concoctions.
Architecture by noted designer Dick Clark [not that Dick Clark].
The place is striking inside. Co-owner Bill Rieger's wife did a
lovely job decorating. I'll give it a formal review once they've
had a chance to settle in but the initial results were very positive.
I tried a dish called "Dynamite Shrimp" that may have
stolen the show. And the lamb chops were in the "to-die-for"
for category. The California rolls, and their close cousins, the
Apen rolls were delicious. My favorite on the sushi side was the
salmon. Fresh and flavorful, and when dipped in the wasabi [Japanese
horseradish] and soy....damn good. They also have a huge and compelling
selection of both wet and dry Sake. The servers were young and earnest
but need a bit more seasoning. More on Kenichi soon. But for reservations,
call 320-8883.
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Buca di Beppo
A
funky Italian restaurant featuring the cuisine of southern Italy
[lots of red sauces] and massive quantities of food served family
style is opening the week of May 7th. It's called Buca di Beppo
and it's on 3600 Tudor Blvd. The name loosely translates to "Joe's
basement" in Italian; guess the first one was started by a
guy named Giuseppe in his cellar in Cleveland. Buca di Beppo is
a national chain of 61 restaurants out of Minneapolis.
We
attended the opening on Monday, May 7th. Huge platters of food,
a young, sometimes overenthusiastic wait staff, and a warm, homey
environment that looks like something out of Little Italy in New
York. We tried the "1983" salad which had some cold cuts
adorning the top. Nice, but I wanted a little more bite in the dressing.
The bruschetta was quite good, crispy and flavorful. The big surprise
was the Margherita Pizza. Loved the Neapolitan style in which it
was prepared.
Spaghetti
and huge meatballs was quite good; nice marinara sauce. Didn't care
for the linguini with clams [vongole] in a white sauce. Too much
olive oil..a bland and somewhat offsetting flavor. Enjoyed the eggplant
parmesan. A crispy and well-prepared treat. Finally, didn't care
for either the Tiramisu [strong rum aftertaste overpowered the dish
or the Cannoli's [filling was too loose and lacked the characteristic
flavor]. I did enjoy the Gelato. Very nice taste and smooth texture.
So
there's the first blush reaction. Much more good than bad. Once
it gets the kinks ironed out, I think Buca di Beppo will be embraced
by Austin families looking for value.
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New
to Our Top 15 Restaurants
Girasole.
We've made changes to the Top 15 and they are all very deserving.
The first restaurant to move into that coveted territory is Girasole
at 4th and Lavaca. This is upscale Italian and absolutely wonderful.
Owner/proprietor Al Zare has fashioned a masterpiece. Pricey, but
worth it. [See the review earlier on the site].
Emilia's.
Relatively
new to the Austin scene, but an overall commitment to excellence
has vaulted this restaurant into the Top 15. The ownership has painstakingly
planned out every detail. A few complaints of uneven service, but
the food has just been stunning. Their young chef has just won a
national award and with good reason.
Eddie
V's. Another newer restaurant to grace the downtown area, Eddie
V's Edgewater Grill has that big city feel yet maintains an Austin
atmosphere. Featuring excellent seafood and steaks and an abundance
of comfort, Eddie V's has a lively piano bar scene as well. You
will feel good here.
La
Traviata. I absolutely love this little Italian restaurant on
Congress near 3rd. Simple Italian food [as the best Italian food
is] with marvelous pastas and a polenta to die for. Owners Dan and
Marion Gillchrist [she's the chef] have done a wonderful job with
this place. It looks like something from the Bronx. Kind of like
the restaurant where Micheal Corleone shoots Captain McCluskey and
Sollazzo in The Godfather.
The
Top 15 is subjective, of course. My criteria are these: excellence
of food, originality of food, presentation, ambiance and service.
That doesn't mean that the restaurants that no longer reside on
this list have necessarily slipped. Just that the newcomers have
raised the bar a notch higher.
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Seen
and Heard
Aside from his usual
gigs at Antone's, Dennis Quaid was spotted at Kenichi the other
evening. He overtips the valet in front of Trulucks and his SUV
does not get parked around the corner like yours or mine. It just
sits there, at his beck and call. Ah, the perks of celebrity. Dennis
is also fond of Artz Rib House on S. Lamar.
Russell
Crowe and his band are headed back to Austin for another gig at
Stubb's. What's lesser known is that the gladiator has a thing for
El Sol y La Luna on S. Congress.
When
things get heated up while the legislature is in session, they don't
bother, apparently, to head out to lunch. Was at The Shoreline Grill
last week when an urgent call came in from the Capitol for 27 dinners
to go! Well, at least they have taste! [especially when it's our
tax dollars they're spending].
Footnote
on extravagance: Sat at a table next to a lobbyist entertaining
some legislators at Truluck's last week. The price tag on the wine
they were drinking was in the three digit range. Nothing like government
in action.
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First
Gonzo Dinner a Smashing Success
We
had the first dinner of our interactive dining group, The Gonzo
Gourmet Club, on Saturday night, May 5th, at Gumbo's at 8th and
Colorado. So, you may ask, does putting together a bunch of strangers
joined only by a love for food and the grape work? Boy does it ever
work!!! We had a great meal, great conversation, and a truly marvelous
time. Friends were made, and a bond established. [We'll have pictures
up soon].
You can still join the Gonzo Gourmet Club. Members are eligible
to win valuable prizes from out participating restaurants. And of
course, members can attend our next dinner, probably at The Driskill
Grill in June.
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Diningoutwithrobbalon.com
will keep you appraised of all new locally owned spots we find and
enjoy.
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Coming soon to diningoutwithrobbalon.com:
Live, in your face, RESTAURANT CAM
(go behind the scenes in a frantic restaurant kitchen and watch
it live, on the net!).
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