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Food
News & Commentary
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Restaurant
Events
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Openings
Closings
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Rumors
of Zoot Closing are FALSE
Let's put it plain and simply: Zoot has not
closed, nor is it going to close. We have this on record from management.
The popular eclectic restaurant on Hearn St. has been the target
of "closing" rumors. We repeat, these are false. Zoot:
(512) 477-6535
12/21/2006
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Pizza
Wars Feedback: Readers Weigh in with their suggestions
| We thought
we’d done a fairly thorough job on our most recent Pizza Wars
article. But a torrent of letters from readers of diningoutwithrobbalon.com
confirmed that while most of you agreed with my assessment of
the local pizza scene, that I had missed some places.
Here are some of the pizza places
that readers suggested: I know, I know, what was I thinking
while I was writing the piece??? Well, better late than never.
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Salvation Pizza: on 34th St. [former site of
Starlite]. 535-0076
Craig O’s: Two locations: 290 [891-7200] and
Balcones 323-0660.
Austin Pizza Garden: 891-9980 on 290.
Aljon’s: 447-6677 on Oltorf.
Arpeggio Grill: On Airport just north of Highland
Mall Bld. 419-0110
It’s Italian: On Brattton in Rd. Rock. 252-1444
Southside Pizza: At 2206 S. Congress 442-4246
East Side Pies: On Rosewood. 524-0933
Mangiera’s Pizza Café: 5900 W. Slaughter
301-0063
Vespaio Enoteca: 1610 S. Congress. 441-7672
12/15/2006
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Austin
Hilton’s Mark Dayanandan Critiques Escoffier Society Dinner
Anyone who used to believe that Austin is
just a backwater stop on the national food scene had better wake up
and smell the café au lait. We’ve had chefs like David Bull
of the Driskill, Will Packwood of Cibo, and Tyson Cole of Uchi win
prestigious national awards. We’ve had restaurants like Ciola’s win
Wine Spectator awards.
And one of our own, Austin Hilton executive
chef Mark Dayanandan, has become the critical point man for one
of the most famous dinners in the country: the Escoffier Society’s
Fall Dinner in New York. Mark has been the society’s resident critic
for the past six years. His job is to comment on the efforts of
the best chefs from New York and around the world as they cook for
the enormously influential gathering at the elite Knickerbocker
Club.
As a critic, I can only wince at how difficult
it must be to weave honest criticism through a tapestry of the some
of the most gigantic egos of the food industy. But Kurt Keller,
director of Escoffier, says that “Mark knows his stuff. He can pick
the food apart without insulting anyone.”
Now this is one dinner that I would like
to attend. Kudos to Chef Mark on his accomplishment.
12/08/06
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Pizza
Wars: Rob Ranks Pizzas in the Austin Area
| Most of
you know that I’m originally from New Haven, Conn. This is the
epicenter of great pizza with the shrine of all US pizza joints:
Pepe’s and Sally’s. Also the amazing Grande Apizza in East Haven.
So I know from whence I speak when it comes to pizza. Our early
years down here were spent in total frustration searching for
anything that resembled an East Coast pie. Then, finally, Brick
Oven opened. At last, a decent pizza. Not New Haven, but better
than anything else we’d found. But I’m getting ahead of myself. |
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Let’s start and the low end of the scale with
the national chains. They range from truly awful to pretty good.
The absolute worst, bottom of all bottom feeders, is Domino’s. I
cannot believe they have the unmitigated gall to pitch a “Brooklyn”
pizza. God help us all. They wouldn’t know a Brooklyn pizza if fell
out of the sky and landed on “toity-toid” street. Other marginal
players, in my opinion, include Ci Ci’s, Pizza Hut, and Little Caesar’s.
Most of their pies feature gobs of cheese with nondescript sauce
and mediocre crusts. Mr. Gatti’s can be occasionally OK but must
be eaten within five minutes of presentation. No “morning after”
shelf life. Pappa Johns and Double Daves can also deliver an edible
pie. And then there’s California Pizza Kitchen. I don’t get this
place. Why in the hell would anyone want a pizza with Thai veggies
and chicken breasts on it? Way too disingenuous for me. Of all the
national chains, I think that Bucca
di Bepo off N. Mopac (next to Dave and Buster’s) makes a great
pie. Their Margarita is a killer as is their fennel sausage pie.
Then there are local chains like Austin’s
Pizza that are much better. Austin’s Pizza offer a much better
brick-oven pie. They grew very quickly and got a little too big.
A subsequent ownership change enabled them to steamline things a
bit and get the company back under control. That’s good because
I like their pizzas. Another smaller local chain that’s also very
good is the Brooklyn
Pie company with three locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and
Georgetown. Brooklyn Pies have excellent crust, which is the foundation
for all great pizza. They have a zesty sauce as well. Local chain
Mangia
makes a good pie, but I’m not a fan of deep-dish Chicago-style pizza.
But personal bias, notwithstanding, we get a lot of good emails
about them.
Locally owned firm also run the gamut but are
generally getting a lot better. This next list includes places that
I would definitely have no problem recommending to my readers. Roppolo’s
on E. 6th St. makes one of the most gigantic pies I’ve ever seen.
The delivery guy almost got a hernia when he tried to deliver to
my upstairs office. But it’s damn tasty. You can buy it by the slice
from their storefront as well. Another relative newcomer is Rounder’s
Pizzaria on W. 6th across from Sweetish Hill Bakery. I am addicted
to their Garlic Knots. They are unbelievable. The pizza is good
but so far not great. Sauce could use a little work. Often overlooked
on Guadalupe is Milto’s.
Their pies have a nice, thin-crust east coast vibe. Their gyros
are a blast as well. And another local favorite for me is Yaghi’s
New York Pizzaria with locations on William Cannon and Highway
71 near Bee Caves. My wife and I love their Mediterranean pizza
as well as the Pepperoni. And while Ruggles
Grill in Westlake may not specialize in pizza, they make a damned
good one. Love their pepperoni and sausage piies. Ditto for the
very nice pizzas at Bellagio
near Jester Estates. I usually go the Oso Buco but their pizzas
are very good. And what’s not to like about Frank
and Angie's? Don King first turned me on to this about five
years ago and their pies have been getting better ever since. My
daughter loves their White Pizza which features an alfredo sauce
and the Pavarotti (lots of yummy garlic). And out in Lakeway, pizza
fan will enjoy the brick oven specialties from Hill
Country Pasta House on Highway 620. I like the Italian sausage
and mushroom.
Moving up to the absolute highest tier of my
pizza favs, (and a note: these can all be eaten cold from the frig
the next day) we begin with newcomer Home
Slice Pizza on S. Congress. Nice job so far. Their crust is
crisp, the sauce sweet and engaging, and their pies are very tasty.
They even offer a vintage east-coast style clam pizza they claim
that’s as good as anything in New Haven. While it’s good, and even
very good, it’s not quite up to New Haven. Grande Appiza in East
Haven makes a clam pizza that is literally to die for. But kudos
to Home Slice for attempting this difficult dish and almost pulling
it off. Their calzones are equally good. Another consistently great
pizza pie can be had at Reale’s
on Research. That first bite confirms it: great mélange of
flavors. This family restaurant offers up one of the best pepperoni
pizzas in Austin. And of course the venerable Brick
Oven, the dean of quality pizzas in Austin must be given their
due. I absolutely adore their sausage and onion and veggie pizzas.
The crust is terrific and can be eaten down to the last bite. And
no discussion of great pizza could be complete without mentioning
Saccone’s with two locations
on Research and a new opening in Round Rock. Their sausage and mushroom
with the sweet Sicilian sauce just about knocks me out. It’s as
close to New York pizza as you’re going to get and it rocks. Dan
Saccone is from New Jersey and he gets it. But even a thin notch
above Saccone’s is the astonishing pie at Tuscany
on Riata Trace off Research. Their amazing Italian oven which utilizes
convection. Infrared, and flame can cook a pizza in under two minutes.
The Margarita, the Greek, and the Pepperoni and nothing short of
amazing. Every time I bite into a pie from Tuscany I am amazed at
how good they are.
So there you have it. Austin has come a long
way on the pizza scene in the last ten years. And I am grateful.
Still nothing that would fit on Wooster St. in New Haven yet, but
there are some that are coming pretty close. And that’s exciting
for a transplant from New Haven. Doubtless, we’ve left off a place
or two. Feel
free to email a suggestion or a comment.
12/01/2006
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Openings, Closings, and Food News & Commentary
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Waterloo
Ice House Opens New Store at 9600 Escarpment and Slaughter
Waterloo Ice House has opened a new store
at 9600 Escarpment at Slaughter in the HEB shopping center. This
is the first of the Waterloo restaurants to actually be constructed
from the ground up. And they will be offering the popular Weekend
“Jumbo Skillet” which features an all-you-can-eat skillet of eggs,
home fries, sausage and bacon waffles and pancakes. There is also
a Tex-Mex version of the skillet. (The cost is $10.95 per person.)
12/13/06
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Spec’s
Wine and Liquor Megastore to Open Friday at Airport and 2222
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Those of you from the Houston area will
recognize the name Spec’s. It is the largest brand in that
area for wine, spirits, cigars, gourmet foods and more.
We are getting three Spec’s stores in Austin with the first
to open Friday, December 8th, at Airport and Koening (2222).
Imagine merging a Walmart, Trader Joe’s,
and Grapevine Market
and you have some idea of the enormity of Spec’s.
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We’ll keep you posted as the others open.
Their website is www.specsonline.com.
12/08/06
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Openings, Closings, and Food News & Commentary
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Tuscany
Closes on Riata Trace
I guess this must be something akin to the legendary
curse of the Sports Illustrated cover page. Just after we named
Tuscany as our favorite pizza in the city we've received an avalanche
of emails from our readers saying that the restaurant appears to
be closed and boarded up.
I stand by my guns on this one, Tuscany's pizza
was amazing. Our condolences to Raj and his team. I will genuinely
miss this restaurant. So it would appear then that the mantle of
numero uno would swing back to Saccone's.
12/21/06
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Openings, Closings, and Food News & Commentary
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Events You Might Have Missed:
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Chez
Zee: Art Opening Mon. Dec. 18th, 4-6pm

Presents:
Susan Morehead
Photographs
Please join up for the opening reception
Monday December 18, 2006
4 to 6 PM
12/15/06
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Click here to find archived
Openings, Closings, and Food News & Commentary
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