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Food News & Commentary

Rumors of Zoot Closing are FALSE

Let's put it plain and simply: Zoot has not closed, nor is it going to close. We have this on record from management. The popular eclectic restaurant on Hearn St. has been the target of "closing" rumors. We repeat, these are false. Zoot: (512) 477-6535

12/21/2006

Pizza Wars Feedback: Readers Weigh in with their suggestions

We thought we’d done a fairly thorough job on our most recent Pizza Wars article. But a torrent of letters from readers of diningoutwithrobbalon.com confirmed that while most of you agreed with my assessment of the local pizza scene, that I had missed some places.

Here are some of the pizza places that readers suggested: I know, I know, what was I thinking while I was writing the piece??? Well, better late than never.

Salvation Pizza: on 34th St. [former site of Starlite]. 535-0076

Craig O’s: Two locations: 290 [891-7200] and Balcones 323-0660.

Austin Pizza Garden: 891-9980 on 290.

Aljon’s: 447-6677 on Oltorf.

Arpeggio Grill: On Airport just north of Highland Mall Bld. 419-0110

It’s Italian: On Brattton in Rd. Rock. 252-1444

Southside Pizza: At 2206 S. Congress 442-4246

East Side Pies: On Rosewood. 524-0933

Mangiera’s Pizza Café: 5900 W. Slaughter 301-0063

Vespaio Enoteca: 1610 S. Congress. 441-7672

12/15/2006

Austin Hilton’s Mark Dayanandan Critiques Escoffier Society Dinner

Anyone who used to believe that Austin is just a backwater stop on the national food scene had better wake up and smell the café au lait. We’ve had chefs like David Bull of the Driskill, Will Packwood of Cibo, and Tyson Cole of Uchi win prestigious national awards. We’ve had restaurants like Ciola’s win Wine Spectator awards.

And one of our own, Austin Hilton executive chef Mark Dayanandan, has become the critical point man for one of the most famous dinners in the country: the Escoffier Society’s Fall Dinner in New York. Mark has been the society’s resident critic for the past six years. His job is to comment on the efforts of the best chefs from New York and around the world as they cook for the enormously influential gathering at the elite Knickerbocker Club.

As a critic, I can only wince at how difficult it must be to weave honest criticism through a tapestry of the some of the most gigantic egos of the food industy. But Kurt Keller, director of Escoffier, says that “Mark knows his stuff. He can pick the food apart without insulting anyone.”

Now this is one dinner that I would like to attend. Kudos to Chef Mark on his accomplishment.

12/08/06

Pizza Wars: Rob Ranks Pizzas in the Austin Area

Most of you know that I’m originally from New Haven, Conn. This is the epicenter of great pizza with the shrine of all US pizza joints: Pepe’s and Sally’s. Also the amazing Grande Apizza in East Haven. So I know from whence I speak when it comes to pizza. Our early years down here were spent in total frustration searching for anything that resembled an East Coast pie. Then, finally, Brick Oven opened. At last, a decent pizza. Not New Haven, but better than anything else we’d found. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Let’s start and the low end of the scale with the national chains. They range from truly awful to pretty good. The absolute worst, bottom of all bottom feeders, is Domino’s. I cannot believe they have the unmitigated gall to pitch a “Brooklyn” pizza. God help us all. They wouldn’t know a Brooklyn pizza if fell out of the sky and landed on “toity-toid” street. Other marginal players, in my opinion, include Ci Ci’s, Pizza Hut, and Little Caesar’s. Most of their pies feature gobs of cheese with nondescript sauce and mediocre crusts. Mr. Gatti’s can be occasionally OK but must be eaten within five minutes of presentation. No “morning after” shelf life. Pappa Johns and Double Daves can also deliver an edible pie. And then there’s California Pizza Kitchen. I don’t get this place. Why in the hell would anyone want a pizza with Thai veggies and chicken breasts on it? Way too disingenuous for me. Of all the national chains, I think that Bucca di Bepo off N. Mopac (next to Dave and Buster’s) makes a great pie. Their Margarita is a killer as is their fennel sausage pie.

Then there are local chains like Austin’s Pizza that are much better. Austin’s Pizza offer a much better brick-oven pie. They grew very quickly and got a little too big. A subsequent ownership change enabled them to steamline things a bit and get the company back under control. That’s good because I like their pizzas. Another smaller local chain that’s also very good is the Brooklyn Pie company with three locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and Georgetown. Brooklyn Pies have excellent crust, which is the foundation for all great pizza. They have a zesty sauce as well. Local chain Mangia makes a good pie, but I’m not a fan of deep-dish Chicago-style pizza. But personal bias, notwithstanding, we get a lot of good emails about them.

Locally owned firm also run the gamut but are generally getting a lot better. This next list includes places that I would definitely have no problem recommending to my readers. Roppolo’s on E. 6th St. makes one of the most gigantic pies I’ve ever seen. The delivery guy almost got a hernia when he tried to deliver to my upstairs office. But it’s damn tasty. You can buy it by the slice from their storefront as well. Another relative newcomer is Rounder’s Pizzaria on W. 6th across from Sweetish Hill Bakery. I am addicted to their Garlic Knots. They are unbelievable. The pizza is good but so far not great. Sauce could use a little work. Often overlooked on Guadalupe is Milto’s. Their pies have a nice, thin-crust east coast vibe. Their gyros are a blast as well. And another local favorite for me is Yaghi’s New York Pizzaria with locations on William Cannon and Highway 71 near Bee Caves. My wife and I love their Mediterranean pizza as well as the Pepperoni. And while Ruggles Grill in Westlake may not specialize in pizza, they make a damned good one. Love their pepperoni and sausage piies. Ditto for the very nice pizzas at Bellagio near Jester Estates. I usually go the Oso Buco but their pizzas are very good. And what’s not to like about Frank and Angie's? Don King first turned me on to this about five years ago and their pies have been getting better ever since. My daughter loves their White Pizza which features an alfredo sauce and the Pavarotti (lots of yummy garlic). And out in Lakeway, pizza fan will enjoy the brick oven specialties from Hill Country Pasta House on Highway 620. I like the Italian sausage and mushroom.

Moving up to the absolute highest tier of my pizza favs, (and a note: these can all be eaten cold from the frig the next day) we begin with newcomer Home Slice Pizza on S. Congress. Nice job so far. Their crust is crisp, the sauce sweet and engaging, and their pies are very tasty. They even offer a vintage east-coast style clam pizza they claim that’s as good as anything in New Haven. While it’s good, and even very good, it’s not quite up to New Haven. Grande Appiza in East Haven makes a clam pizza that is literally to die for. But kudos to Home Slice for attempting this difficult dish and almost pulling it off. Their calzones are equally good. Another consistently great pizza pie can be had at Reale’s on Research. That first bite confirms it: great mélange of flavors. This family restaurant offers up one of the best pepperoni pizzas in Austin. And of course the venerable Brick Oven, the dean of quality pizzas in Austin must be given their due. I absolutely adore their sausage and onion and veggie pizzas. The crust is terrific and can be eaten down to the last bite. And no discussion of great pizza could be complete without mentioning Saccone’s with two locations on Research and a new opening in Round Rock. Their sausage and mushroom with the sweet Sicilian sauce just about knocks me out. It’s as close to New York pizza as you’re going to get and it rocks. Dan Saccone is from New Jersey and he gets it. But even a thin notch above Saccone’s is the astonishing pie at Tuscany on Riata Trace off Research. Their amazing Italian oven which utilizes convection. Infrared, and flame can cook a pizza in under two minutes. The Margarita, the Greek, and the Pepperoni and nothing short of amazing. Every time I bite into a pie from Tuscany I am amazed at how good they are.

So there you have it. Austin has come a long way on the pizza scene in the last ten years. And I am grateful. Still nothing that would fit on Wooster St. in New Haven yet, but there are some that are coming pretty close. And that’s exciting for a transplant from New Haven. Doubtless, we’ve left off a place or two. Feel free to email a suggestion or a comment.

12/01/2006

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Openings

Waterloo Ice House Opens New Store at 9600 Escarpment and Slaughter

Waterloo Ice House has opened a new store at 9600 Escarpment at Slaughter in the HEB shopping center. This is the first of the Waterloo restaurants to actually be constructed from the ground up. And they will be offering the popular Weekend “Jumbo Skillet” which features an all-you-can-eat skillet of eggs, home fries, sausage and bacon waffles and pancakes. There is also a Tex-Mex version of the skillet. (The cost is $10.95 per person.)

12/13/06

Spec’s Wine and Liquor Megastore to Open Friday at Airport and 2222

Those of you from the Houston area will recognize the name Spec’s. It is the largest brand in that area for wine, spirits, cigars, gourmet foods and more. We are getting three Spec’s stores in Austin with the first to open Friday, December 8th, at Airport and Koening (2222).

Imagine merging a Walmart, Trader Joe’s, and Grapevine Market and you have some idea of the enormity of Spec’s.

We’ll keep you posted as the others open. Their website is www.specsonline.com.

12/08/06

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Closings

Tuscany Closes on Riata Trace

I guess this must be something akin to the legendary curse of the Sports Illustrated cover page. Just after we named Tuscany as our favorite pizza in the city we've received an avalanche of emails from our readers saying that the restaurant appears to be closed and boarded up.

I stand by my guns on this one, Tuscany's pizza was amazing. Our condolences to Raj and his team. I will genuinely miss this restaurant. So it would appear then that the mantle of numero uno would swing back to Saccone's.

12/21/06

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Restaurant Events


Events You Might Have Missed:

Chez Zee: Art Opening Mon. Dec. 18th, 4-6pm



Presents:
Susan Morehead
Photographs

Please join up for the opening reception
Monday December 18, 2006
4 to 6 PM

12/15/06

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