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Michelin
“Red” Guide seeing stars in New York City
As a food writer, I
enjoy reading the work of other writers, especially in cities that
are epicenters for cuisine, like New York and San Francisco. I get
a kick out of the eminently pretentious but thoroughly readable
Frank Bruni of the New York Times. And I love the work of chef turned
literary luminaria Anthony Bordain. If you haven’t read Kitchen
Confidential, you are missing a great and riotous work of prose.
But there is only one
Michelin guide. And the works of all writers, large and small, are
simply blown away in the vortex of the wake that the guide produces.
The Michelin “Red” Guide has been released for New York City. You
know the drill. Three stars mean a meal of a life time. Two stars
mean a meal worth going out of your way for. One star means an assurance
of very good food in the restaurant’s category. And after holding
its breath for some time, New York can now breathe a collective
sigh of relief. The guide is out.
Per Se, Thomas
Keller’s stunningly original restaurant, Le Bernardin, Jean
Georges and The Essex House each received the coveted
three stars. Four restaurants received two stars: Daniel,
Masa, Danube, and Bouley. Thirty-one restaurants
received one star, and that means that about 20,000 other restaurants
didn’t receive anything.
Babbo, Mario
Botelli’s highly delectable Italian eaterie received only one star.
And thus the bickering began. While those who were anointed with
the top awards were predictably humble and gracious (Eric Ripert
of Le Benardin said he was “beside himself”), those who felt they
were slighted started carping almost immediately. Botelli accused
Michelin of being biased against Italian restaurants and those restaurants
that play music. He was also upset that the Spotted Pig in
Greenwich Village (a smallish “gastro pub”) also got a star.
For me, I rarely, if
ever use the Michelin guide. Yes, they get the big and most obvious
restaurants correct. But I’ve often found that little gems are overlooked.
I prefer to go on-line and find local writers when I visit a particular
city and am looking for restaurants. I’ve found the guide to be
mostly accurate, but far too pretentious for what it purports to
be. But then again, it’s New York City. Everything’s bigger there:
particularly the egos of the critics and the chefs. There has to
be some equally large publication that assuages everyone’s collected
egos and Michelin fits the bill.
But do make it a point,
Michelin notwithstanding, of trying Per Se (Keller’s restaurant
at the Venetian in Las Vegas, Bouchon, is also amazing) and my favorite,
Babbo, on your next trip to NYC. And while it hasn’t gotten
a star, the cheesecake at the Carnegie Deli is almost worth
the trip on its own.
11/23
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Rob
Hosts High Bidders from Cystic Fibrosis Fund Raiser at Four Seasons
Cindy Jordan wanted to do something nice
for her dad. So back in July, she bid on a dinner for four with
me at the fund raiser for Cystic Fibrosis. And as luck would have
it, Cindy’s bid was the winner. And her two sisters, Amy and Gina
along with their dad joined me for a most memorable evening at the
Café at the Four Seasons.
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The group started with a bottle of Cakebread
Cabernet along with the Foie Gras, the Crab Cake, and the
Shrimp with stilton cheese grits. Entrees ranged from the
Maine Lobster with edamame and white asparagus in a butter
sauce (to die for) along with several excellent steaks. Another
bottle of Cakebread was downed amidst interesting conversation.
Cindy’s husband, who works at Dell,
has CF and from all accounts, is a great guy.
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I also met a dad who should be very proud
of the three daughters he has.
11/22
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Scotch
Dinner Hosted by Dona Emilia's Nov. 16th
On Wednesday, November 16, 2005 at 6:30 PM Doña
Emilia’s South American Bar & Grill will host a Scotch Dinner
featuring five exemplary scotches. Click
here to see the flyer. James McCartney from Scotland will be
on hand to provide scotch insights and history. Five food courses
- each one tailored to complement a particular scotch - will be
served. Click here
to see the menu of the scotches and food
pairings.
Tickets to this event are limited and the drink
& food events at Doña Emilia’s often sellout in advance,
so make your reservation early by calling 478-2520. The cost of
the event is $70 all inclusive, with a portion of the proceeds will
benefit the Dell Children's Medical Center of Central Texas.
11/02
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