This is great news for far south Austin as I’m pretty sure there are no Indian restaurants farther south than Tarka at 290 and Brodie. The cuisine, like the Star of India at the Bombay Grill in Westlake will feature many vegetarian dishes with the classic Indian spices. I’d be happy with the Cabbage Baji and the Sag Paneer.

We’ll keep you posted on the exact date .

Best Huevos Rancheras

Without question, Joe’s Bakery on East 7th is the very best for this wonderful Mexican breakfast. The homemade ranchera sauce and the flour-coated and grilled bacon set this dish apart. I think it works best with eggs over easy. The flavors are wonderfully mellow.There’s not even a close second in the area.

Best Pork Chops

Perry’s Steakhouse has a gigantic 32oz three-rib chop that is the standard in this genre. The chop is melt-in-your-mouth amazing and they offer a special version of it for Friday lunch. The dinner version can easily be split by two: Marge and I couldn’t finish the last one we ate. But it was truly delicious. The caramelized flavor nuances set this beauty apart.

Best Steak Frittes

I am a huge fan of Justine’s on East 5th St. The simple, train-station like menu is vintage French and the steak frittes is an exemplary dish. The fries are crisp and the first bite of the steak just blew me away. Massive flavor. Justine’s is another great example of how “location-location” is overrated.

Best Eggplant Parmesan

There are many fine Italian restaurants in Austin but the winner of the best eggplant is a little strip mall place called CraigO’s. The eggplant and the marinara sauce are always damn near perfect and I never get any bitterness from their version (often a problem with eggplant dishes). The texture is always smooth and that’s another huge variable.

Best Charcuterie Plate

I am a huge fan of this dish which has been undergoing a resurgence in popularity at fine dining restaurants. My favorite in Austin is the version presented by Vince Young Steakhouse. The flavors of the smoked meats are singular and the presentation is always spot on. The duck prosciutto is to die for as is the house-made sausage. A nice glass of Cabernet Sauvignon (Silver Oak perhaps) goes nicely.

Best Bone-In Fried Chicken

This is a dead heat between Max’s Wine Dive downtown and Hyde Park Bar and Grill. Chef J.P. Lacosste and Tony Heller work some serious magic with what used to be the south’s favorite Sunday dinner. The advantage is to Max’s because they serve the dish nightly while Hyde Park is thus far limited to Mondays and Tuesdays.

Best Pasta Dish

This has to be the incredible Linguine Carbonara at La Traviata downtown at 3rd and Congress. Chef Marion Gilchrist dishes up some amazing flavors at this tiny restaurant that bears more than a passing resemblance to the one in The Godfather where Michael Corleone shot Solozzo and Cpt. McClusky. The sunny-side egg atop this dish is old style but the flavors of this genuine carbonara are spot on.

Best Maine Lobster

My favorite spot for fresh Maine lobster is McCormick and Schmick’s at the Domain. I always prefer to order ahead and get a 3 or 4-pounder. They are always inordinately fresh and perfectly steamed. Actually had a 5-pounder for my birthday last year: the claws were so big that they had to be taken back to the kitchen and blown open with C4 (just kidding). It was magnificent. I like the fact that M&S doesn’t serve any frozen fish. I think the only thing they use the freezer for is ice cream!

Best Rack of Lamb

This was a tough one but Cool River Café came out on top. I’ve had nothing but perfect flavors and textures from the Australian lamb at this Parmer Lane eaterie. A little mint and voila! This is one example where gnawing on bones to extract the last bit of flavor is not only allowable but expected!

Best Cubano Sandwich

Since chef Ben Nathan joined the team at the always popular Café Blue, his Cubano gained instant recognition. It’s melt in your mouth good, and importantly, is never dry. But there’s another very strong contender: hence, another dead heat. The Gnarly Gar on Lake Travis serves up a fine Cubano as well. There’s nothing more enjoyable than sitting on their deck watching the boats go by and sipping a cool one while munching on Todd Hynes’ great sandwich. ironic that they’re both better than the version presented by Austin’s only ostensibly true Cuban restaurant.

Best Sushi

Apologies to fans of Uchi, but I have to go with Musashino on Greystone. Proprietor Smokey is a master and has mentored both Tyson Cole and Tatsu-san (of Imperia). His blue fin toro is without equal in the city: breathtaking flavors and butter-like texture. Smokey has sauces that only he can prepare (a symbol of his master status) and he is also one hell of an altruist. Honorable mention to Uchi and Uchiko and a strong nod to Piranha Killer Sushi.

(072820111829)

Quality Seafood

My earliest memories of Quality Seafood on Airport go back years, but that was when they were primarily a retail seafood market. I gained an entirely new appreciation for them when they began serving a full restaurant style menu for both lunch and dinner.

There’s a reason so many restaurants around central Texas purchase their fish from Quality. It’s FRESH! And that makes for compelling dining when you choose to eat in as well.

Imagine my delight when I found that I could get fresh whole Fried Clams, bellies and all, just like they serve in New England, battered and deep fried. And despite being flown in, they show no signs of it. They are an incredible treat for me. You can also get clams that we lovingly refer to up north as Steamers or Longnecks. Lovely! And you can down a dozen Gulf Oysters for $12.99 that are equally fresh. No BP hangover on these babies. And the Applewood Bacon wrapped Scallops are another stellar appetizer: terrific taste in these plump scallops. They also have a tasty Popcorn Shrimp with a Caribbean sauce that provides a perfect snack for the less adventuresome. And there’s also a very serviceable Crawfish Etouffee and a mild Seafood Gumbo. And since we’re talking clams, how about some New England style Clam Chowder? This is smooth and buttery with lots of clams and just a few potatoes, the way it should be.

There are enough shellfish and fresh fish entrees at Quality to satisfy even the most demanding gourmand or the rank beginner. I am a fan of the Fried Oysters, man that fist bite just pops with flavor! And the Fresh Texas Catfish is fried to a golden perfection and comes off with really nice texture. And they have a chef at Quality who gets blackened fish! And the Blackened Catfish is simply to die for: it is so tender and tasty that it’s a wonder it remains intact. Likewise the blackened Rainbow Trout is another palate pleasing treat: I’ve had this several times and its been pristine, never a fishy taste. Then try the Grilled Atlantic Salmon. This is a dish that can go south in a hurry if overcooked but the pros at Quality know exactly what to do. The salmon flakes off, bite after gorgeous bite. And by all means try the Okra, the Hush Puppies (these are extraordinary) and the Corn on the Cob. They are requisite items with seafood. Broccoli works well with blackened and grilled fish as well and they do it beautifully at Quality.

And should a plate of fish not be your preference, order up a Fried Shrimp or Oyster Po Boy. These are cooked as they should be, and served with lettuce, tomato and tartar sauce on a Hoagie Bun. I love the first bite of a Po Boy! What a coalescence of flavors.

So there you have it foodies. Quality Seafood works as well dining in as taking out; in fact probably better. Cause you don’t have to do the dishes!

The thing that stays with me to this day is the terrible expression on the guy’s face: he was devastated to see years of hard work and dedication come to a stunning and unthinkable end.

I see that agony of defeat on an almost weekly basis in the restaurant industry. When a restaurant closes, particularly an owner-operated place, the defeat is painful and all-encompassing. Life savings are lost, credit cards that had been maxed out fall into the miasma of debt, angel investors (usually friends or family members) lose their investments, and the community loses as well: a gathering place for people to enjoy is now replaced by what is usually a starkly empty building often covered with demand notes from landlords and utility companies et al. It is an ugly business any way you look at it: ruined credit or possibly bankruptcy, marital squabbles, and the red-faced shame of failure, deserved or otherwise.

And that’s the problem with a lot of places that have closed in Austin. They didn’t deserve their fate. And yet, the quixotic nature of the restaurant business did them in. They might have had good food and service but just couldn’t get on the radar screen for the people that needed to find them.

In the last 5 years alone, I have seen more than 100 dreams of small Austin restaurateurs go up in smoke. Some deserved to close. They simply didn’t have a good product. But most didn’t deserve it.

So the next time you’re inclined to post some smart ass negative comment or a user generated web site, or walk out of a restaurant after a so-so experience and start telling all your friends how much it sucked remember this. Bad news in the restaurant industry travels much faster than good news. If you had a bad experience at a restaurant ask for the GM or owner. If they are worth their salt, they can fix your problem on the spot, And they will. But most diners simply leave, pay the tab, and then start dispensing the bile after the fact. The restaurant can’t know that something was wrong unless you share it with them and give them a chance to make it right. If you do that and they still can’t solve the problem, then they deserve the bad PR.

I catch an abundance of crap from bloggers because I tend to write positive reviews on places I enjoy. I do this not because my services are bought and paid for (as some suggest) but rather because I want to find restaurants that I enjoy that might be flying under the radar. I want to to tell people WHERE to go as opposed to WHERE NOT to go. That’s why I do what I do. I have seen the devastation wrought by a failed owner operated place. If you haven’t been there, you can’t imagine how much it hurts.

I’ve seen the negativity that some folks seem to think equates to “criticism.” And trust me on this, you don’t need this reviewer to tell you where not to go. Word-of-mouth kills a bad restaurant in Austin faster than you can say “al dente.” Yet unfortunately and ironically, word-of-mouth doesn’t always help a good one. Want a few fairly recent examples: Taste Select Wines, Cibo, Dona Emelia’s, Demi Epicurious, El Arbol, Chon Som, The Old School Grill, Bistro 88, Silver and Stone, Aquarelle, The Belmont, Ms. B’s, Sampaio’s, Louie’s 106, Corvina, Domingo’s, Thai Tara, Crimson, Vin Bistro…I could go on. These were all places that, in my opinion, deserved to stay open. Yes, some may have been underfunded and might have had unreasonable budgets. And they knowingly entered one of the most ferociously difficult businesses that anyone can choose to engage in.

Still, I hated to see these guys and many like them close. It’s why I’ll leave the negatives to those who seem to relish in posting them. Once you’ve seen the “agony” of a failed restaurant from my vantage point and the carnage that failure heaps on the owners, it stays with you. And those memories are indelible. So sue me if I choose to look for the positives!

Chef Davey

It took some time for me to review the French Quarter Grille at Parmer and N. IH-35 because it sits at the spot that was formerly Mama Roux. Michael and Yoli, my good friends, and the founders of Gumbo’s and Mama Roux tragically passed away last year.

But longtime server Scott and sous chef Dave did not want that memory to fade. And so using Michael’s recipes, the French Quarter Grill was born. And the two new owners have not missed at beat!

The appetizers have changed very little at the French Quarter. And that’s a good thing. The Red Beans and Rice still has that down-home, Bourbon St. feel to it and it has flavor that stands up to the strongest scrutiny. And the Crawfish Gumbo features pristine Louisiana Crawfish (or mudpups, yappies, et al) in a wonderfully fulsome roux. The first bite speaks volumes with its perfect flavor balance. The Shrimp Gumbo is equally good. The Crawfish Beignets are another treat. They arrive piping hot with jalapeno and roasted corn tartar sauce. Forget everything you’ve ever thought about a beignet at Café du Monde and just think wonderful integration of spicy yet mellow flavors. And the Fried Green Tomatoes still rock. They come with a crabmeat remoulade that shoots them up several notches (in my opinion) on the taste ladder from way this dish is usually presented.

The entrees at The French Quarter Grille are a delicious homage to Chef Michael. I love the Shrimp Creole. The tomato sauce is critical in this dish and Dave nails it. The Creole style imparts a different flavor vibe than the Cajun dishes and it’s just irresistible. And the Fish Ponchartrain is simply to die for. It’s blackened, of course, and comes with a luscious brandy mushroom sauce topped with shrimp, crab, and crawfish. This is decadence, plain and simple. Likewise for the Bowl of Crawfish Etouffee, a classic Cajun dish with the crawfish done in a wonderfully rich roux that is a bit blonder than some (I actually prefer it this way). What taste! And then you have to try the Cajun Version of a Grilled Ribeye. I don’t know if it’s the seasoning that I like more or the delicately caramelized onions and mushrooms on top.

Nevertheless, it is one massive flavor rush! Order it medium rare plus and you will be very happy. And for some carbs, how about a Shrimp, Crawfish and Andouille Sausage over fettucini with Dave’s absolutely spot on creamy Creole tomato sauce? The sauce is just the right consistency and works so well with this dish that at meals end, there’s not a drop in sight!

I could give you many dessert options but the truth is simply stop at the Croissant Bread Pudding. With vanilla bean ice cream, caramel rum and chocolate sauce, this offers up a comingling of blissfully sweet and comforting flavors.

The French Quarter Grille is far better than any monument that could have been erected to Michael and Yoli. It’s a living, breathing, butt-kicking testimony to their life’s work!

The point is you can get sushi rolls pretty much however you want them. And you don’t have to dress for the party. This is apparently a very Austintatious restaurant. And from early feedback I’m getting on Dining Out with Rob, people are liking it.

The pricing is by color of plate and based on how many plates of how many different colors you get, you can eventually figure out your bill. Sounds unusual but reasonable. And hey, it’s Austin after all.

Read more at rollonsushidiner.com.

However, a “For Lease” sign has recently gone up in front of the restaurant, and it still remains closed. This kind of scenario does not usually bode well for a restaurant. I have repeatedly left messages trying to get a confirmation, but no luck. So all I can do is report what I know to this point. But for fans of the restaurant, the “For Lease” sign is probably not a good portent of what is to come.

The Estancia Salad Bar: A Meal in Itself

For all the fans of Estancia Churrascaria that recently closed on Highway 290 South, we are here today at their new Arboretum location with good news. This is worth the drive. It’s bigger, more tastefully appointed, and the food, if anything is even better.

Estancia Churrrascaria is a Brazilian-style steakhouse that elevates the art of blending an amazing salad bar along with skewers of smoked meats brought to your table by your resident gauchos.

Let’s begin by building a salad. This is a healthy and delicious way to prime the pump, if you will, for the amazing skewers of meat to come. There are over 25 items on the salad bar, and I like to put mine together with hearts of palm, artichokes, asparagus, sun dried tomatoes, wonderfully fresh mozzarella cheese and a wide variety of mixed greens, including some of the sweetest and tastiest peppers I’ve had the pleasure to enjoy. So you build this compelling salad plate and amble over to your table and enjoy it with some of the luscious Brazilian cheese rolls. This is a really thoughtful and plentiful salad bar, and it sets the stage for the most important part of the meal.

You see this green card? It’s the Brazilian equivalent for “bring on the meats and don’t stop until I turn the green card over” (otherwise known as espeto comido). You can literally eat as much as you want and I’ll tell you, the temptation to leave that card up is great!

The meats at Estancia are done pampas style, as the cowboys did many years ago. They are roasted with sea salts and the flavors are nothing short of extraordinary. I always begin with the Picanha, the most popular cut from the top sirloin seasoned with sea salts and garlic. You want flavor? The first bite of the Pichana blows away any misconceptions you might have had about Brazialian steaks. Amazingly rich tastes here and the medium rare is the perfect cut. The Fraldinha is another great cut from the bottom sirloin. You want juicy? All I can say is my, “Oh my!” Next up would be the Costela, the eminently tender Beef ribs. And who could resist the Cordiero, the young leg of lamb sliced off the bone. I love lamb but the Brazilian style enhances the wonderful flavors to an even greater degree. The Frango is another killer: these are slow roasted chicken legs wrapped in bacon. It needs no enhancement. Perfect as it is. The Linguica is another cut that will make you a believer. This is traditional pork sausage and coupled with as bit of chimichurri sauce I could eat a bushel basket of this. The Costella de Porco or pork ribs can make a run at any of our traditional Texas BBQ ribs: there’s a tenderness here that is absolutely engaging.

This all comes at one set and very reasonable price when one considers what is provided, and you will not find a single gaucho trying to usher you out the door. Take your time and it will be time well spent.