Thursday, May 17, 2012

Zed’s

501 Canyon Ridge Dr.
Austin, TX 78753
(512) 339-9337
Sun-Wed: 11am-10am
Thu-Sat: 11am-Midnight
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Zed's

When former FCC chairman Newton Minnow once famously referred to U.S. television as a “vast wasteland” he could have just as easily been talking about the restaurant scene in far north Austin. Especially with the recent and unfortunate demise of Mama Roux, there aren’t a lot of quality spots up IH-35. That’s why I’m very pleased to introduce you to Zed’s in the Tech Ridge Center off Jaeger Lane.

Zed’s is about upscale comfort fare: kind of a cross between Jack Allen’s Kitchen and Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill. Chef Jim Matteson has got this place humming and everyone up north should be thankful.

The appetizers are firing on all cylinders and offer a wide variety of intriguing tastes. Let’s start with the Smoked Pork Taquitos. The smoked pulled pork has a wonderful flavor that’s enhanced by just the right amounts of Jack cheese, avocado cream and a terrific fire roasted salsa. And the shell has the requisite texture. Nice dish! The Grilled Cajun Shrimp is another keeper. The shrimp are beautifully grilled and the Cajun lemon butter sauce takes this one over the top with its nicely nuanced back bite. The Shiner Bock BBQ Ribs are smoked St. Louis Ribs done in a zesty yet artfully mellow Shiner Bock sauce. The meat, as it should, falls off the bone. Goes nicely with an IPA. And I’m very partial to the Game Chili. I rarely see an entry like this is the numerous Chili cook-offs that I’m invited to judge. It’s a homemade blend of venison, beef, and pork with Pepper Jack cheese and critically, diced red onions. This is one bad-ass chili.

The sandwiches in a comfort food restaurant need to reach deep to satisfy the “ah ha” cravings that many fans of the genre have. And Zed’s delivers. The Smoked Prime Rib Dip is a blast from the past: something you don’t see much of these days. But the thin-shaved prime rib on a hoagie with caramelized onions and Swiss cheese has arrived in time to solve my retro comfort crisis. And I enjoy the El Tejano Burger. This is Angus beef with all the trimmings including the aforementioned venison chili along with grilled onions and Jalapeno Jack Cheese. This is first bite bliss. 2nd or 3rd too for that matter!

The entrees are spot on for a comfort food restaurant and about what one would expect! The Beer Can Chicken is moist as all get out (thanks to the Tecate) and has terrific flavors with great texture. This is for two and could easily be devoured by one as it’s that good! The Deep Dish Chicken Pot Pie is as good as we have in town. The creamy chicken in a sauce with the proper density along with veggies in a light and tender crust is just a blast.

And I love the Double Cut Pork Chop. It was a bit underdone the first time I ordered it: but they fixed it quickly and it was delicious. Loved the seared flavor with the honey glaze. And the Slow Smoked Prime Rib with a wonderful creamy horseradish sauce and a jus just cries out to be devoured. Exceptionally tender.

Many of the desserts at Zed’s are made by the manager’s wife and they rock. The Bailey’s Irish Cream Cheesecake is divine as is the luscious Carrot Cake (one of the best around). So do not despair north Austinites: Zed’s has arrived with a bang!